Arpepe Rosso di Valtellina

You may be more familiar with the muscular Nebbiolo of Barolo or Barbaresco, but in Valtellina, the grape takes on a different character. Pale, pure, elegant, and nuanced, it evokes the finesse of a fine French Burgundy while remaining something entirely unique to this specific location. An absolute house favorite.  

For those interested in wine with that all-important ‘sense of place,’ this is a perfect example. Valtellina is a valley in the extreme north of Italy, in Lombardy. The valley’s steep slopes rise dramatically before turning into the snow-capped peaks of the Swiss Alps, giving a sense of both altitude and climate. To thrive in such conditions, vineyards must take advantage of the steep south-facing slopes, ensuring the grapes receive as much sunlight as possible throughout the day. Without this exposure, they simply would not ripen. The grapes undergo a long, gentle maceration in tini before being pressed off to big old chestnut casks for a year’s rest. Fruit-forward, pretty, and perfumed, this is a perfect introduction to the Mountain Nebbiolo this family does so well.  

The Perego family has been tending vines on these sheer granite terraces in the mountainous Valtellina since 1860. The vineyards are so far north that they are practically in Switzerland. Working exclusively with Nebbiolo, known locally as Chiavennasca, they grow grapes up to 700 meters above sea level on steep, sunlit slopes where the vines dig straight into the rock, producing fruit of intense minerality. The approach remains decidedly old-school, with labor-intensive work in the vineyard, where everything is done by hand, and a patient, delicate touch in the cantina. The wines are left to rest until deemed ready for release, allowing the transparency of the grape, the singular landscape, and a gentle hand in winemaking to create wines with a remarkable sense of place.