Champagne Eric Rodez, Cuvée des Crayères Edition 38 NV

Champagne Eric Rodez sits right in Ambonnay, one of Champagne’s great Pinot Noir villages, and produces the sort of deeply vinous, expressive wines that blur the line beautifully between Champagne and serious still wine. This is grower Champagne with real depth and personality, made by somebody who clearly enjoys experimentation almost as much as he enjoys excellent vineyards.

Eric Rodez himself previously worked at Krug, which probably explains some of the obsession with blending, texture and complexity running through the wines. Unlike many growers who focus narrowly on single styles, Rodez plays with oak ageing, reserve wines and parcel-by-parcel vinification in ways that give the Champagnes huge layers of flavour without ever feeling overworked.

The wines tend to be rich, broad and intensely aromatic. Toasted brioche, baked apple, citrus peel, nuts, spice and chalky minerality all show up regularly, often with this creamy texture that somehow still stays incredibly energetic underneath. Ambonnay’s Pinot Noir gives everything structure and depth, while the Chardonnay keeps the wines lifted and fresh.

What makes Rodez especially fascinating is how alive and evolving the wines feel. They’re not polished into anonymous perfection. You get vintage character, vineyard differences and all the little complexities that make grower Champagne so addictive once you start paying attention.

There’s also something slightly dangerous about Champagne this drinkable carrying this much complexity. You start intending to “study” the wine seriously, then realise half the bottle vanished during what became a very enthusiastic conversation about yeast ageing.

A terrible hardship, obviously.