Maison des Saules Cotes du Jura ‘La Madeleine’ Chardonnay

Jura has become one of those wine regions capable of causing mild panic among sommeliers whenever tiny-production bottles appear on a list. Maison des Saules sit firmly in that exciting new generation of growers treating the region’s traditions with respect while keeping things fresh and energetic.

Based near Lons-le-Saunier, the estate is run by Marc Lacroix and Anne-Cécile Daubigney, farming organically and biodynamically across marl-rich Jura vineyards. Chardonnay and Savagnin form the backbone of the range, often aged patiently in old barrels with a fairly low-intervention approach.

The wines themselves carry that wonderfully distinctive Jura combination of freshness, texture and savoury complexity. Chardonnay shows citrus, nuts and mineral tension, while Savagnin moves into spice, salt and lightly oxidative territory without becoming overpowering. Even the younger cuvées feel vibrant and energetic rather than overly serious.

Jura itself remains brilliantly idiosyncratic. Tiny vineyards, strange local grapes, oxidative ageing traditions and wines that pair suspiciously well with Comté cheese and winter evenings. Maison des Saules capture that atmosphere nicely while still feeling modern and approachable.

These are the sort of wines that make people start talking enthusiastically about soil types after two glasses. Usually a warning sign, but occasionally justified.