Domaine Crève-Cœur
Rhône Valley, Séguret, France
Southern Rhône reds have a reputation for being massive, hot and occasionally capable of knocking you unconscious halfway through dinner. Domaine Crève-Cœur goes in a much fresher and more elegant direction, which is probably why people fall for the wines so quickly.
The domaine is run by Pablo Höcht up in the hills around Séguret, one of the prettiest villages in the Rhône and the sort of place that immediately makes you consider abandoning normal life to grow Grenache on a mountainside somewhere. Pablo previously worked at Château de Saint Cosme before focusing fully on his own vineyards, farming organically and biodynamically across Séguret, Sablet and surrounding Rhône sites.
The wines themselves feel wonderfully alive. Grenache sits at the centre of most of the reds, backed up by Mourvèdre and Syrah depending on the cuvée, bringing loads of juicy dark fruit, herbs, spice and stony freshness without drifting into overripe jam territory. Whole bunch fermentation and semi-carbonic maceration keep things energetic and dangerously drinkable, which is not always something you can say about Southern Rhône wine.
The whites deserve attention too. Blends of Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul and Viognier somehow manage to feel rich and textured while still carrying loads of lift and acidity. Very much “one more glass” territory.
What makes Domaine Crève-Cœur especially appealing is that the wines never feel overworked or overly polished. They taste honest. Slightly wild around the edges sometimes, but in the best possible way. You can feel the landscape and climate in the glass rather than just cellar technique and oak management spreadsheets.