If you're after cask and whisky in the city centre, it's hard to go wrong here. The grand Edwardian interior might catch your eye first, but it's the rotating Scottish ales and deep whisky shelf that keep people coming back.

An old school pub with a revolving door! Regular cask tap takeover, great beer in the fridge and on keg too. Classic warming pub food and amazing location right next to Waverley, It might be one of Edinburgh's most grand pubs.

After a walk along the waterfront or out to Cramond Island, there's nowhere better to stop for a pint. It's all about the location here, with sea views, plenty of outdoor seating and a pace of life that makes it hard to rush anywhere.

No frills, no fuss, just a pub that gets the important things right. There's usually a few good Scottish cask ales on the bar, a decent whisky shelf behind it, and enough regulars to tell you you're onto a good thing.

Scotland's oldest pub has history in spades. After a walk around Arthur's Seat or Duddingston Loch, it's a cracking place to settle in with a pint, and the old skittles alley is worth a look while you're there.

A pub that gets the balance just right. There's always something good on the taps, the whisky list is worth exploring, and pizzas from next door mean it's dangerously easy to settle in for the evening.

No gimmicks, just properly kept beer and one of the best cask pbs in the city. If you're the sort of person who always checks the handpulls before anything else, you'll feel right at home here. Spirits shelves are always packed with the weird and wonderful too.

Three Edinburgh breweries have joined forces here, and it shows. Fresh beer from Moonwake, Pilot and Barney's and a relaxed neighbourhood feel makes it just as easy to drop in for one as it is to spend the whole day.

One of those pubs that will never go out of fashion. The cask is always great, there's usually something interesting on keg, and the spot overlooking The Shore makes it an easy place to settle in for a pint or three. In the sunnier days you're more than welcome to buy a pint, walk over the to Water of Leith and sit with your legs dangling.

A Leith favourite for good reason. Drop in for brunch, stay for a cocktail, and if it's served in a teapot, don't ask questions, just enjoy it.

Out on Leith Shore, Teuchters Landing has a giant beer garden that sits next to, and on top of, the Water of Leith. Lots of local beers on the taps and pumps and great Scottish food too. Cigars delivered to the table?

One of Leith's oldest pubs. Good beer, homemade pizzas and regular live music. An easy place to spend an evening on The Shore.

A proper Leith local where conversations are as as much a part of the experience as the pint. Pull up a stool, settle in with a Scottish cask ale and you'll quickly see why it's been a favourite on Leith Walk for years.

A proper community pub that feels rooted in Leith. A good mix of local craft beer, regular live music and the kind of place where it's easy to get chatting to the people at the next table.

One of Leith's newer pubs, but it already feels like it's been part of the neighbourhood for years. Fourteen rotating taps, regular food pop-ups and a cracking beer garden make it somewhere you'll keep finding reasons to go back.

Part bar, part music venue and part neighbourhood hangout, Leith Depot always has something going on. The beer list mixes local breweries with familiar favourites, and the live music keeps the place buzzing without getting in the way of a good pint.

A neighbourhood pub that gets on with serving good beer. The cask lineup changes regularly, there's usually something interesting on keg, and the cellar hosts everything from jazz nights to comedy without feeling like it's trying too hard.

No music, no TV, no fuss. Just a proper pub where the cask is looked after, the whisky shelf is worth exploring, and conversation does the rest.

Tucked away down Broughton Street Lane, The Keller feels like a place you've stumbled across rather than planned to visit. The focus is on German and Scottish beer, with a great tap list and a relaxed, modern space that's easy to settle into.

A welcome addition to Leith Street that's found its feet quickly. Expect a rotating lineup of Scottish beer, a good whisky and bourbon selection and a pool table. A pub that feels refreshingly independent in the middle of the city.

On a cobbled lane in the New Town, Kay's is the sort of pub that reminds you why old pubs are worth seeking out. Go for a well-kept pint of cask, find a spot by the fire if you're lucky, and don't be surprised if you stay longer than you planned.

Looking out across the Firth of Forth, it's one of those rare pubs where the setting is every bit as good as the pint.

Sitting right on Newhaven harbour, a pub that is woven into the neighbourhood. Pull up with a pint after a walk along the waterfront, soak up the sea views and enjoy a proper local that hasn't forgotten what it's there for.

A favourite with locals for good reason. There's always something interesting pouring, the cask never misses, and it's the sort of pub that earns repeat visits rather than shouting about itself.

The cask is consistently good, the historic interior is full of character, and it feels every bit like the local you wished was around the corner from home.

Always a solid shout if you're around the Southside. There's good cask on the bar, hearty pub food coming out of the kitchen, and enough character to make you want to come back.

A pub that's easy to miss but well worth seeking out. There's always a thoughtful mix of cask and keg, plenty of Belgian beer in the fridge, and enough regulars to tell you it's doing something right. Quiet or packed it always feels cosy.

A pub that suits whatever kind of evening you've got in mind. Good pints, great cocktails, and a small but stunning beer garden.

Impromptu folk session almost every waking minute of the day that've been going for longer than most venues can remember. It's small, always lively, and the music belongs here rather than being put on for show.

Just off the Royal Mile, this is the sort of pub you're glad someone told you about. The cask is great, the cider selection is the best in the city (by far), they have a ridiculous list of gueuze beer - old Cantillon? - for those who ask, and somehow it still feels like a local despite being a couple of minutes from the Castle.

Tiny, busy and absolutely worth squeezing into. Whether you're after a proper pint of cask or a dram from one of the best whisky shelves in the city, this is somewhere we always recommend.

If someone asked us where to hear traditional Scottish music, this would be our first answer. Order a pint, find whatever space you can, and let the session do the rest.

A fantastic excuse to make the trip over to South Queensferry. Good cask, a deep whisky shelf and a constantly changing beer lineup all come with a front-row seat to one of Scotland's best waterfronts.

A Stockbridge local that's stayed true to itself over the years. There's always a good choice of cask, the food's reliably good, and it strikes that balance between somewhere to pop in for one and somewhere you end up staying until the fire is on.

A proper old Edinburgh pub that hasn't lost its character. The cask is looked after well, the whisky shelves are packed, and the Victorian interior is reason enough to call in for a pint.

A pub with plenty of character. grab a German classic and drink it from the bottle. It's the sort of place that's just as good for a quiet pint as it is for a long catch-up with friends. Small beer garden but it gets the sun all day!

Fresh beer poured just a few metres from where it's brewed. The beer garden and regular food pop-ups make it an easy place to while away a sunny afternoon.

Proper local that just happens to have one of the best beer selections in the city. Sixteen rotating taps, well-kept cask ale and a laid-back beer garden.

World famous for their wacky sour beer, Vault City have a tiny taproom down in Haymarket. Vault City beers on draught and in can for sit in or take-away. Usually some interesting import beers too!

A proper brewery tap where the beer is as fresh as it gets. Grab a table outside if the weather's behaving, surprisingly good wine offering too! Now with a log fire for the colder seasons too.

Owned by local brewery Campervan, LiL has the core range from Campervan alongside a huge amount of rotational guests and regular tap takeovers. Plenty of lambic and takeaway cans in the fridge too. Situated in the lovely archways on Leith Shore. Biggest beer garden in Edinburgh?

Drink Moonwake beers straight from the tank. Their taproom is above the brewery so you get the full view.

Bellfield have taken over one of Leith's best-looking pubs without losing what made it special. Fresh brewery beer, a few well-chosen guests and genuinely good food make it just as good for dinner as it is for a couple of pints.

Lager specialists Newbarns have a lovely spot just off Leith Walk. Beer garden, core and seasonal beers on draught and in the fridge for take away and food pop ups!

The team behind Otherworld Brewing, pouring their own beers alongside guest taps. Come for the fresh pints, stay for the excellent burgers. Beer garden also open in the sunny days!

Right in the middle of Rose Street, but it never feels like a tourist trap. Twenty rotating taps mean there's always something worth trying, whether you're after a fresh IPA, a dark beer or something a bit left field.

Out in Newhaven in an old traditional building you'll find a great community pub, with incredible craft on draught. In the summer months the Dread has tables and chairs set out on the Pride Bridge. Loads of cans for takeaway and all sorts of events on.

In the Old Town where most of what you can find are gift shops and street performers, Salt Horse is there to satisfy those tastebuds. Great beer on Keg, Gueuze in the fridge and takeaway cans available too. Great burgers and a small beer garden down the stairs!

One of those pubs that gets the basics absolutely right. A cracking cask selection, plenty of interesting keg beer and a proper neighbourhood atmosphere make it somewhere you'll happily lose a couple of hours.

In the courtyard at Summerhall, this is one of those places that feels like you've stumbled across it. Brewed-on-site beer by Barney's, plenty of outdoor seating and a steady stream of food pop-ups make it just as good for a sunny afternoon as a post-gig pint.

One of our favourite places for a pint. Great cask, a rotating lineup of interesting keg beers, great whisky and enough dark wood and quiet corners to make you forget what the weather's doing outside.

Forget the standard curry house menu. The dishes change regularly, the family are always happy to steer you towards their favourites, and bringing a bottle means you can spend your money where it matters most: on the food.

A brilliant little neighbourhood bistro where the food does all the talking. Bring a bottle midweek, order a few Mediterranean dishes for the table, and don't rush because this is somewhere to settle into for the evening. BYOB (Tue–Thu)

Roll up your sleeves and get stuck in. The sharing platters are packed with slow-cooked stews, colourful sides and fresh injera, making it one of our favourite places to gather a few friends around the table and order a bit of everything.

Just around the corner from us, and somewhere we end up more often than we'd like to admit. Local beer, good pizza and genuinely good cocktails make it just as easy to pop in for one as it is to accidentally spend the whole evening there.

No frills, no tiny portions and no need to spend a fortune. Order a carafe of wine, settle in over steak frites or moules, and you'll see why this place is always busy.

Order more tacos than you need. The margaritas are as good as everyone says they are, the tacos arrive as they're ready, and sharing a table full of plates is very much the way to do it.

Forget everything you know about thin-crust pizza. These Detroit-style slabs are all about crisp cheese edges, airy dough and toppings piled on without holding back, so come hungry.

Big flavours, quick service and no need to overthink your order. Grab a few dishes for the table, expect a bit of spice, and don't be put off if there's a queue because it usually moves pretty quickly.

Hot pot is always better with a group, and Xiangbala is one of the best places in Edinburgh to do it. Fill the table with broths, meats, vegetables and noodles, then settle in because nobody gets through a hot pot meal in a hurry.

Big flavours, no tiny portions. Go for the poutine, stay for a burger and a Canadian beer, and don't be surprised if you're already planning what to order next before you've finished.

Fresh, vibrant Vietnamese cooking without any unnecessary fuss. Order a few things for the table, don't skip the pho, and make sure there's room left for a couple of crispy spring rolls.

Bring a bottle, order a few mezze to start and make sure there's room for the kebabs or slow-cooked stews. It's honest, generous Persian cooking that deserves to be much better known.

One of the best new openings in the city. Come for a cocktail, stay for dinner, and don't skip the Sunday roast if you're there at the weekend.

One of the city's longest-standing Vietnamese restaurants, and still one of our favourites. The pho is the obvious choice, but the fresh spring rolls and fragrant curries make a strong case for ordering far more than you planned.

If you love southern Italian cooking, don't miss this one. The seafood is the headline act, the pasta is made from scratch, and every meal feels more like being welcomed into someone's home than eating in a restaurant.

Coffee in the morning, a glass of something interesting in the evening, and a great bottle shop selection if you're taking something home.

Some of the best pizza in the city, without making a song and dance about it. The dough gets all the attention it deserves, the toppings let the ingredients do the talking, and you'll probably be planning your next visit before you've finished the crusts.

If you're after the flavours of South India rather than the usual curry house menu, this is the place. Order a dosa, add a biryani for the table, and don't leave without trying the Chicken 65.

A little Italian that's been quietly winning people over in Leith for years. The menu sticks to the classics, the daily specials are always worth a look, and it feels like the kind of place every neighbourhood should have.

If seafood's on the agenda, this is one of the first places we'd mention. Find a table looking out over The Shore, order whatever's come in that day, and take your time over a bottle of wine while Leith drifts by.

The tacos are the reason to come, but you'll probably end up talking about the margaritas just as much afterwards.

One of those places you'll end up recommending after a single visit. Bring a bottle, order something you've never tried before, and let the kitchen do the rest because it's very hard to go wrong here.

We love BYOB. Don't overthink the menu, just order plenty of dumplings and build the rest of the meal around them. Everything's made by hand, the Sichuan dishes are every bit as good, and it's one of those places we keep going back to with a bottle we've been eyeing up in the shop.

Bring a few people and order more than you think you'll need. The khinkali and khachapuri are what everyone comes for, and once you've tried them it's easy to see why this little Georgian spot has such a loyal following.

When you're after something quick that doesn't taste like a compromise, this is hard to beat. Freshly carved shawarma, warm house-made naan and generous portions have made it a Leith favourite for good reason. The Falafel is incredible.

Come with a few people and order across the menu. The dumplings and hand-ripped noodles are a must, but half the fun is trying combinations you'd never think to put together yourself.

One of our favourite spots on Leith Walk when we're craving a proper shawarma. Everything coming off the grill is packed with flavour, the mezze's made for sharing, and you'll almost certainly leave wondering why you don't eat Syrian food more often.

Origano has been quietly turning out some of Edinburgh's best pizzas for years. The wood-fired bases are the reason people keep coming back, and the BYOB policy certainly doesn't hurt either.

One for anyone who enjoys picking over the whole menu rather than heading straight for a Margherita. Order a few fritti for the table, see what's on special, and let the pizza take care of itself.

Fresh, fast and packed with flavour. Go for the bánh mì or a steaming bowl of pho, add a Vietnamese coffee, and you'll be wondering why there aren't more places like this in Edinburgh.

One of the most exciting kitchens in the city tucked away in Sciennes. The hand-ripped noodles are incredible, but it's the changing sharing menu and natural wine list that keep pulling us back.

Some of the best fish and chips in the city, served right on Newhaven Harbour. Grab a table outside if the weather's on your side, order whatever's freshest that day, and take your time watching the boats come and go.

Bring a bottle, order far more mezze than seems sensible, and let the charcoal grill do the rest. It's one of those meals that's built for sharing, and you'll almost certainly leave wondering why you don't eat Lebanese food more often.

If you're only ever ordering a korma, this probably isn't the place for you. Come for crisp dosas, fragrant biryanis and bold South Indian flavours that you don't find nearly often enough in Edinburgh.

Go with a group and order far more than seems sensible. The handmade dumplings are reason enough to visit, but the biang biang noodles and hearty dishes from northern China deserve just as much attention.

A little café with a big heart. Come for the handmade momos and excellent chai, stay because it's one of the warmest, most welcoming places you'll find anywhere in the city.

There's nowhere else quite like it in Edinburgh. Macanese cooking blends Portuguese and Chinese influences into something completely its own, and every visit feels like a chance to try flavours you won't find anywhere else.

Come hungry. The dough gets all the attention it deserves, the seasonal specials are usually worth a look, and you'll probably spend half the meal eyeing up what everyone else ordered.

When you can't decide between noodles and dumplings, the answer is usually both. The handmade noodles are the star of the show, but leaving without a basket of dumplings for the table feels like a missed opportunity.

Come with a group and order one of the signature ground pots. Rich, warming and made for sharing, it's the kind of meal that has everyone reaching for one more piece of bread to soak up the sauce.

Build your own bowl, choose your broth and don't be shy with the mushrooms. It's comforting, completely customisable and exactly the kind of meal you'll crave when Edinburgh remembers it's winter.

One bite of the roujiamo and you'll wonder why there aren't more places serving them in Edinburgh. Come hungry, order a plate of dumplings to share, and don't leave without trying the liangpi.

A lively neighbourhood Italian that takes the spirit of a classic osteria and gives it a modern Edinburgh twist. Fresh pasta, seasonal small plates, great aperitivi and a well-curated wine list.

This is where it all started. Big New Haven-style pizzas, loud music and zero pressure to be anything other than a great place to eat with friends. Order a pie for the table and don't skip the crust dip.

Forget ordering a starter and a main. Fill the table with small plates instead, share everything, and argue over the last bit of butter chicken. It's one of those meals that's always better with a few friends.

Come with a few people and order across the menu. Always order momos, the Nepalese specials are where the kitchen really shines, and you'll probably end up wishing you'd left room for one more dish.

If you're heading to Portobello, make this part of the plan. Order the shrimp bun or lobster roll, grab a bench looking out to sea, and enjoy seafood that somehow tastes even better with a bit of salt in the air.

Right on Portobello promenade, this is one of those places where it's worth lingering over another drink just because of the view. Grab a table outside if the sun's out, order some fish and chips, and watch the world wander past.

Sometimes you just want a really good steak, and Hawksmoor rarely disappoints. The cocktails are every bit as good, the wine list's got plenty to explore, and the old banking hall makes it feel like a proper occasion without being stuffy. BYOB on a Monday.

A brilliant neighbourhood trattoria and wine bar in the heart of Stockbridge, with a wine list that explores every corner of Italy and a menu built around fresh, unfussy Italian cooking.

Tiny dining room, big flavours. Bring a bottle, order the bibimbap or bulgogi, and don't be put off if there's a queue because it's almost always worth the wait (which is never long).

Some of the best dumplings in Edinburgh, and you can watch them being made while you wait. Order a few different fillings for the table, add a couple of dishes from the wider menu, and don't leave without trying the handmade noodles.

Forget the usual curry house routine. Fill the table with chaat, Indian fried chicken and roadside curries, bring a bottle of beer or wine, and don't worry too much about who's ordered what because sharing is half the fun. They have venues across the city so if you aren't in Tollcross, give the name a quick google.

One of those places where the menu decides what's good today, not the other way round. The cooking is rooted in great produce, the bread's worth buying on its own, and the wine list gives you plenty of reasons to stay for another glass.

One of Edinburgh's best-kept secrets. Sudanese food full of flavour, a genuinely warm welcome and the kind of place you'll end up recommending to everyone once you've been.

Hata has built a loyal following around something most cafés overlook: porridge. The menu changes every week, the coffee's consistently good, and it's one of those places that's just as easy to drop into on your own as it is to meet friends for breakfast.

The bagels alone are worth the walk. Everything is baked by the team behind The Bearded Baker, the coffee's excellent, and it's become one of our favourite spots for a slow breakfast or lunch.

If coffee's your thing, make the detour to Custom Lane. Everything's roasted just a few metres away, the pastries are great, the toasties are amazing, and it's an easy place to lose half an hour.

Breakfast in a bao bun shouldn't work as well as it does, but one bite and you'll get it. Grab one to go before a walk through the Botanics, and don't skip the crack-dusted hash browns.

Coffee and brunch surrounded by more houseplants than most garden centres. Grab a table, slow down for an hour, and don't be surprised if you leave carrying a monstera under one arm.

A little slice of Sicily on Leith Walk. Come for a panino and an espresso, have a browse around the deli before you leave, and you'll probably find a few things coming home with you. Lunchtime pasta and paninis.

The coffee speaks for itself, the pastries never disappoint, and it's somewhere that's just as good for a quick espresso as it is for slowing down with a filter.

The queue tells you most of what you need to know. Come for a loaf, leave with a couple of pastries you hadn't planned on buying, and don't forget the coffee while you're at it.

Coffee comes first here, and it shows. Expect a rotating lineup of some of the world's best roasters, no laptops in sight, and the kind of place where it's very easy to lose track of time over a filter.

From the team behind Timberyard, but with a more relaxed feel. Drop in for a glass and a few plates or settle in for dinner, either way you're in safe hands if you like great cooking and a wine list that's full of interesting bottles rather than familiar labels.

There's a real confidence to Spry. The wine list is full of growers doing interesting things, the seasonal cooking is every bit as thoughtful, and nobody's interested in making wine feel more complicated than it needs to be.

If you enjoy discovering bottles you've never heard of, this is your place. The shelves and by-the-glass list change constantly, the team are brilliant at matching wines to your taste, and there's not a hint of pretension about it.

Wine without the intimidation. Pop in for a glass if you're nearby or settle in with a bottle from the shelves, knowing the team will happily point you towards something interesting without making a fuss about it.

No wine list full of familiar names here. Tell the team what you fancy, order a few plates of cheese and charcuterie, and let them introduce you to something you probably haven't tried before.

Part neighbourhood pub, part wine bar, and very good at both. There's always something interesting pouring, whether it's a fresh cask ale or a bottle of low-intervention wine, and the wood-fired pizzas are reason enough to stay for another round.

One of our first stops before we come to work. Go for a coffee, leave with a pastry you didn't plan on buying, and don't hang around too long because the best stuff rarely lasts until lunchtime.

Everything is baked on site, from buttery croissants and cinnamon buns to cakes that somehow always seem to look better in real life than they do on Instagram. Grab a coffee, pick something from the counter and try not to leave with a box of extras for "later".

A bakery that's quickly become one of Leith Walk's best stops. Everything is made from scratch, the pastries disappear quickly, and it's the kind of place where you'll leave with more than you planned.

Worth the trip to South Queensferry all on its own. Get there early, pick up a couple of pastries and a coffee, then wander down to the waterfront before everything good sells out.

Yes, you'll probably have to queue. Once you've had one of the pastries, you'll understand why. Go early, order more than you think you need, and thank us later.

A meal here is all about the ingredients. Stuart Ralston's seafood-led tasting menu is beautifully judged from start to finish, and the wine pairings make it very easy to lose track of time.

From the team behind The Little Chartroom, but with a more relaxed feel. The menu changes all the time, the cooking has a quiet confidence about it, and it's somewhere you'll happily book again before you've even left the table.

Confident cooking without any unnecessary fuss. The menu changes with the seasons, every plate feels carefully considered, it's a meal you'll still be talking about on the walk home.

Barry Fish lets great seafood do the talking. Order whatever's best that day, add a bottle from the excellent wine list, and settle in because this is one of Leith's most exciting tables.

A meal here never feels overcomplicated, despite the Michelin star. The menu changes with the seasons, the wine list is exceptional, and every plate lets the ingredients do the talking. A favourite.

One of the restaurants that helped put Leith on the culinary map. The cooking is elegant without ever feeling fussy, the wine list is exceptional, and every course reminds you why it's held a Michelin star for so long.

There's a confidence to Timberyard. The menu changes with the seasons, the wine list is one of the best in the country, and every plate feels like it's there for a reason rather than to show off.

Dinner here feels more like being invited into someone's home than eating in a restaurant. Brian and Glen do everything themselves, cooking, pouring the wine, making every course feel personal as well as beautifully judged. Only 14 seats.

One of our favourite places for an evening that starts with a beer and somehow ends with a cocktail. The kitchen's always worth a look too, so don't be surprised if you end up staying longer than you meant to.

One drink has a habit of turning into dinner here. The cocktails are excellent, the wine list's full of interesting bottles, and the downstairs bar has just the right amount of buzz without feeling hectic.

Every few months this place transforms into a completely new world, with themed cocktails, menus and decor that are put together with an impressive amount of care. Even if cocktails aren't usually your thing, it's hard not to enjoy the creativity on show.

Whether you're there for a cocktail, dinner or a gig, The Voodoo Rooms always feels like a good night out waiting to happen. The grand rooms have plenty of character, and there's usually something going on once the sun goes down.

You'll come for a Negroni and end up discovering a new favourite amaro. It's small, lively and completely unpretentious, making it one of our favourite places in the city for a proper cocktail.

Leith has no shortage of good pubs, but Nauticus has carved out its own niche. Expect a great lineup of Scottish beer, an outstanding whisky back bar and cocktails that are every bit as considered, all wrapped up in a place that still feels like a local.

The whisky's a good excuse to visit, but the view is what you'll remember. Head straight to the top floor for cocktails, drams and one of the best panoramas in Edinburgh, stretching from the Forth bridges to the Castle.

A cosy Stockbridge local that does things its own way. Good beer, vinyl on the turntable and a room full of antiques give it plenty of character without ever feeling like it's trying too hard.

Cocktails without the theatre. The drinks are seriously good, the welcome's always warm, it's a bar that like it's belongs to the neighbourhood rather than the Instagram crowd.