Heinrich
Burgenland, Austria
Heinrich is one of the big names behind modern Austrian natural and biodynamic wine, although thankfully the wines themselves avoid becoming one of those “interesting” natural wine experiences that taste like cider left in a radiator. Based around Burgenland near Lake Neusiedl, the winery has built a huge reputation for expressive reds and skin-contact whites that still keep freshness, balance and proper drinkability front and centre.
Gernot and Heike Heinrich work mainly with native Austrian grapes like Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt, alongside a few international varieties, and the wines tend to have this lovely mix of dark fruit, spice, earthiness and energy running through them. There’s usually plenty going on without things becoming too polished or overworked.
The winery shifted heavily toward biodynamic farming years ago, and you can feel that slightly wild, living quality in a lot of the wines. Minimal intervention, spontaneous fermentation and less reliance on heavy oak all help keep the wines vibrant and full of character. Some bottles lean savoury and earthy, others bright and juicy, but they almost always feel alive in a really good way.
Heinrich also became hugely important in pushing Austrian wine away from old-fashioned bulk production toward something far more exciting and internationally respected. A lot of modern Central European winemaking trends passed through places like Heinrich first before everybody else caught up.
Even with all the natural wine credibility attached to the name now, the wines never feel preachy or difficult. They still fundamentally taste like something you’d want open on a dinner table rather than just analyse for educational purposes.
