Kanpai

Kanpai basically looked at Britain and decided the country probably deserved its own sake brewery instead of importing absolutely everything from Japan forever. Fair enough really, because they ended up becoming the UK’s first sake brewery and helped drag sake out of the mysterious specialist category most people were too intimidated to explore properly.

Started by Tom and Lucy Wilson in London, Kanpai use traditional Japanese brewing techniques but make everything right there in the city using carefully sourced rice, koji and water. The results lean clean, fresh and modern while still feeling properly connected to classic sake styles.

The Junmai and Junmai Ginjo bottlings especially are brilliant entry points. Soft rice texture, melon, pear, subtle umami and a clean dry finish that makes sake weirdly addictive once your palate clicks into it. It’s delicate compared to wine or whisky, but there’s loads going on underneath if you pay attention.

The brewery and taproom have become a bit of a Bermondsey institution too. Sake on tap, tastings, izakaya-style food and people suddenly realising sake works with far more than sushi.

What’s nice about Kanpai is that they never make sake feel overly formal or intimidating. The whole thing stays relaxed, approachable and built around actually enjoying the drink rather than treating it like a chemistry lesson.

Also, fresh nama sake on tap is dangerously easy to get carried away with.