Lustau
Jerez, Andalusia, Spain
Sherry still suffers from decades of bad PR involving dusty sideboards and Christmas relatives drinking tiny glasses at room temperature. Lustau spend a lot of time proving how unfair that reputation is.
Founded in Jerez in 1896, Lustau has become one of the great modern names in Sherry by balancing tradition with accessibility remarkably well. They work across the full range of styles, from bone-dry Fino and Manzanilla through to rich Pedro Ximénez and old oxidative blends, sourcing wines from different bodegas and ageing them within the traditional solera system.
The dry styles are often the real revelation for people. Fino and Manzanilla bring salt, almonds, citrus peel and yeasty freshness that makes them unbelievably good with food. Cold olives, anchovies, hard cheese, fried fish, all suddenly make much more sense with a glass nearby. The older Amontillado and Oloroso bottlings move into walnut, tobacco, dried fruit and spice territory without losing that core savoury character.
What makes Lustau particularly useful is consistency. The wines remain traditional without feeling inaccessible, which is partly why bartenders and sommeliers love the range so much. There’s enormous complexity available, but you can also just drink chilled Manzanilla on a hot afternoon and be perfectly happy.
Jerez itself remains one of the world’s most distinctive wine regions. Chalky albariza soils, Atlantic influence and centuries of ageing tradition create wines that genuinely taste unlike anything else. Lustau captures that brilliantly while avoiding the intimidation factor some Sherry producers accidentally cultivate.