St Bernardus Brewery

Belgium has plenty of legendary breweries, but few carry quite as much mythology as St Bernardus. Partly because the beer is excellent, and partly because its history remains closely tied to Westvleteren, which tends to send beer enthusiasts into lengthy conversations almost immediately.

The brewery began in Watou after an agreement with the monks of St Sixtus Abbey allowed production of their beers under licence. The original recipes, yeast and brewing knowledge all played a role in shaping what eventually became the St Bernardus range.

The beers are classic Belgian abbey ales. Rich malt, dark fruit, spice and expressive yeast character sit at the centre of the lineup. Abt 12 remains the flagship and is widely regarded as one of the great Belgian dark strong ales. Layers of raisin, fig, caramel, chocolate and warming alcohol somehow remain remarkably balanced rather than overwhelming.

The lighter beers deserve attention too. Tripel, Prior 8 and the excellent Witbier all show the same combination of complexity and drinkability that Belgian brewing seems unfairly good at producing.

St Bernardus feels deeply traditional without becoming stuck in the past. Which is probably why people keep returning to it once the first bottle disappears.