Pickerings. Gin Bauble set of Three

Edinburgh gin has a habit of balancing tradition with just enough eccentricity to keep things interesting. Pickering’s arrived during the modern gin boom but managed to avoid feeling entirely driven by it, which already puts them ahead of quite a few competitors.

Produced at Summerhall Distillery in Edinburgh, the gin is based around a recipe dating back to 1947 that was apparently discovered in an old Bombay recipe book. Thankfully the resulting spirit tastes considerably more convincing than many “lost family recipe” stories usually do.

The botanical mix leans classic London Dry in structure but softer and slightly warmer in profile. Juniper stays central, backed by citrus peel, cardamom, cloves and gentle spice. There is enough complexity to keep martinis interesting without disappearing into the increasingly common problem of tasting like somebody liquefied a candle shop.

Pickering’s also became closely tied to the rise of flavoured and seasonal gin releases, including their Christmas gin baubles which somehow became unavoidable every December in Scotland for several years. Thankfully the core range remains the strongest part of the lineup.

There is a distinctly Edinburgh quality to the whole operation. Smart without becoming slick, traditional without becoming dusty and just playful enough to avoid taking itself too seriously. Which, for gin, is probably the correct approach.