Chinati Vergano occupies one of the strangest and most fascinating little corners of the Italian drinks world. Founded by Mauro Vergano, a former chemist turned vermouth and chinato obsessive, the project focuses on beautifully handcrafted aromatised wines that somehow feel simultaneously ancient, intellectual and dangerously drinkable.

The name itself gives away the inspiration. “Chinato” refers to quinine-infused aromatised wines traditionally produced in Piedmont, most famously Barolo Chinato. Vergano takes that old Italian aperitivo tradition and pushes it into wonderfully eccentric territory using carefully sourced wines, herbs, spices and botanicals.

The resulting drinks are extraordinary. Vermouths full of alpine herbs, bitter citrus, spice and floral notes, all balanced with incredible precision. Some lean bright and refreshing, others become dark, medicinal and almost hauntingly complex. The Chinato especially feels like something discovered in a forgotten monastery cellar after several centuries of increasingly ambitious herbal experiments.

What makes Chinati Vergano especially brilliant is the restraint. Despite all the complexity, the flavours remain beautifully integrated rather than chaotic. Nothing feels gimmicky or artificially exaggerated.

There’s also a lovely sense that Mauro Vergano makes these products because he’s genuinely fascinated by flavour rather than because anyone requested artisanal small-batch vermouth made with obsessive scientific precision. Which somehow makes the whole thing even more appealing.

Basically, if you enjoy cocktails, bitter drinks or Italian aperitivo culture generally, this is very dangerous territory for your wallet and cupboard space.