Domaine Berthollier Chignin "Vieilles Vignes Jacquère 2024 "

Savoie wines have a habit of sneaking up on people. One minute you’re casually drinking crisp Alpine white wine with some cheese, the next minute you’re aggressively explaining the virtues of Jacquère and Mondeuse to confused friends at dinner. Domaine Berthollier Chignin is very much part of that slippery slope.

Run by brothers Denis and Didier Berthollier, the domaine sits beneath the dramatic limestone cliffs of the Bauges mountains in Chignin, right in the heart of Savoie. The whole place feels wonderfully mountain-grown. Steep slopes, limestone soils and vineyards surrounded by Alpine scenery that makes every bottle somehow taste even fresher.

The wines are classic Savoie in the best possible way. Chignin and Chignin-Bergeron bring loads of citrus, white flowers, mineral freshness and ridiculously thirst-quenching acidity, while Mondeuse adds peppery dark fruit and a slightly wild savoury edge. These are wines built for raclette, mountain food and quietly demolishing an entire bottle without noticing.

What makes the domaine particularly enjoyable is how natural and unforced everything feels. Organic farming, minimal intervention and a real respect for the landscape all come through clearly, but without the wines becoming overly funky or difficult.

There’s also something refreshing about how unfashionable Savoie remained for so long. Producers like Berthollier quietly kept making beautiful Alpine wines while the rest of the wine world got distracted arguing about Burgundy pricing and orange wine.

Very crisp. Very stony. Very easy to become completely obsessed with.