Omnipollo Levon Wild Ale 75cl

Omnipollo arrived during the early craft beer boom and immediately decided normal brewing rules were probably optional. Swedish Fish candy in sour beer, marshmallow lassi gose, imperial stout that reads like a dessert menu. Somehow, against all odds, a huge amount of it works brilliantly.

Founded in Stockholm by brewer Henok Fentie and artist Karl Grandin, Omnipollo originally operated as a gypsy brewery before eventually opening its own production space inside a converted church in Sundbyberg. Which honestly feels perfectly on-brand once you see the beers.

The brewery built its reputation around pastry stouts, heavily fruited sours and soft, saturated IPAs long before half the industry caught up. Beers like Noa Pecan Mud Cake and the Bianca series became cult favourites because they somehow balance ridiculous concepts with proper brewing precision underneath. Sweet, yes, but rarely careless. Even the most adjunct-heavy beers usually retain structure, bitterness or acidity to stop things becoming liquid pudding.

There’s also a huge visual identity running through the whole project. Grandin’s artwork became almost as recognisable as the beer itself, helping Omnipollo feel closer to music or streetwear culture than traditional brewing. Plenty of breweries copied that formula afterwards. Very few matched the consistency.

What keeps Omnipollo interesting is that they still seem genuinely curious about what beer can become rather than simply repeating the same hype cycle forever. One minute Czech-style pilsner, next minute barrel-aged blueberry cheesecake imperial stout. It should feel exhausting. Instead it mostly feels fun.