Weingut Andres Pfalz Riesling vom Buntsandstein Trocken Bio

The Pfalz has always had the climate, the vineyards and the history. What it lacked for years was the confidence to stop looking over its shoulder at other wine regions. A new generation of growers has changed that, and Weingut Andres has become one of the clearest examples of why the region is now attracting so much attention.

Based in Deidesheim along the Mittelhaardt, arguably Germany's most prestigious stretch of vineyard land outside the Mosel, the estate is run by brothers Michael and Thomas Andres. Since taking over the family winery in 2015, they have transformed it into one of the leading voices of modern German wine. Organic farming, biodynamic principles and a hands-off approach in the cellar are all part of the picture, but they never feel like the point of the exercise. The wines come first.

What makes Andres particularly compelling is its embrace of both Riesling and the Burgundian varieties. Riesling remains the backbone of the estate, sourced from some of the Pfalz's most celebrated vineyards including Kieselberg, Ungeheuer and Idig. Alongside it sit increasingly impressive Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, wines that have helped establish the estate's reputation well beyond Germany. Burgundy is clearly an influence, but these wines never feel like imitations. The warmth, generosity and mineral backbone of the Pfalz remain firmly intact.

The vineyards stretch across an extraordinary range of soils, from red sandstone and limestone to loess and marl. Those differences are treated as something worth preserving rather than smoothing out. Fermentations are carried out with native yeasts, oak is used thoughtfully rather than prominently, and the cellar work is geared towards transparency rather than polish. The result is a range that feels remarkably articulate about where it comes from.

There's a confidence to these wines that reflects the wider evolution of the Pfalz itself. Twenty years ago, German wine conversations often began and ended with Riesling. Producers such as Andres have helped broaden that discussion. Whether it's a village-level Riesling, a finely judged Spatbergunder or a serious single-vineyard bottling, the common thread is clarity, texture and an impressive sense of place.