Mullineux Leeu Passant Dry Red Wine 2017

South Africa’s wine scene became dramatically more exciting once producers stopped trying to imitate Bordeaux and started trusting their own vineyards instead. Mullineux were right at the centre of that shift.

Founded by Chris and Andrea Mullineux in Swartland in 2007, the winery quickly became one of the defining names of modern South African wine. Old dry-farmed vineyards, granite and schist soils, low-intervention winemaking and a huge focus on site expression all sit at the core of the project.

Syrah and Chenin Blanc are the real stars here. The Syrahs carry black olive, pepper, dark fruit and savoury spice with freshness and structure that feels much more Rhône than blockbuster New World red. The whites can be extraordinary too. Chenin Blanc with waxy texture, citrus, herbs and mineral tension that keeps unfolding over time rather than shouting immediately.

Swartland itself plays a huge role in the style. Dry climate, ancient soils and old bush vines naturally produce concentrated fruit, but cooler evenings preserve freshness underneath. The wines somehow feel both generous and restrained at the same time.

What makes Mullineux particularly impressive is consistency. Even the more serious single-soil wines retain drinkability and energy rather than disappearing into collector territory. These are wines that reward attention, but also disappear surprisingly quickly once opened.